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Secret Devon: A Local's Guide to Canal Life

16th April 2018

Categories: Visitor News

Discover Devon through the eyes of a local ...

Maisy Jones is lucky enough to live in our beautiful county, and she loves the serenity of its canals. She writes:

For most people the word 'canal' conjures up images of long hazy summer days, a slow pace of living and probably a picnic or two. There’s nothing that embodies a relaxed way of life more than the Great British canal - just ask Timothy West & Prunella Scales, or those original trail blazers, Rosie & Jim.

Canals once had a purpose. They were mainly used for transport or irrigation and were intrinsic to the industrial revolution, but today they haven’t been resigned to history and rightly so. They're hubs of life, they draw people together. They're places where heavy industry once thrived, but that use has now been replaced by a lightness of mind, body and spirit. They're a place where both young and old can congregate to enjoy all the simple pleasures that life (and Devon) have to offer.

For me, here in Devon there are two main contenders for the canal crown.

Firstly, Exeter Canal: with its lively atmosphere, Exeter Quay is what many consider the start of the canal, where there’s an array of independent shops, delicious eateries, cafes and restaurants to suit all tastes and appetites, plus plenty of seating so you can enjoy the views and dream the day away.

After exploring, slowly meander your way down to the mellow (& dog friendly) Double Locks Pub, where you’ll find a canal-facing deck area, a large beer garden and numerous pontoons for boats & kayaks. Alternately you could take a walk, cycle or paddle on the wild side, all the way to the Turf Locks; with its open views it’s sure to satisfy those who are soft in spirit but hard of body (it's roughly a 10.2 mile return walk).

The canal is undeniably a major jewel in Exeter’s crown. Just ask any of the city workers who head down there on balmy summer nights, the children who splash, laugh and dive into the cool, deep waters or the hardy dog walkers who feel the crunch of the winter frost under their feet, whilst their fury friends sniff the cacophony of scents on offer. You also can’t forget to mention the variety of cyclists, who frequent the smooth cycle paths. From the very small, to those who could take on the Tour de France, it’s a great place to watch Exeter life.

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The other canal that has to be mentioned is Tiverton’s Grand Western Canal, that runs for a huge 11 1/4 miles. It starts from Tiverton and stretches all the way to Lowdwells on the Somerset border, and it's possible to feel as though you've stepped back in time as you make your way along the banks of this historic gem.

In the summer months you’ll even see grand shire horses, which are used by the Tiverton Canal Company to pull the traditional barge, just like in times gone by (adult tickets start from £10.60). If you fancy staying firmly in 2018, then you can also hire a boat or simply sit and enjoy the view with refreshments from the Floating Cafe Bar. There are car parks all along the canal so starting from further along the route is easily accessible.

Try walking the quieter stretches and spot the abundance of wildlife from swans, ducks and some pretty sizeable fish, to the biggest, most vibrant dragonflies. You might also be lucky enough to see the kingfishers that frequent the canal in all their shimmering glories. Places of interest along the canal include Halberton and Sampford Peverell - both good places to stop for quick refreshments before you carry on your way.

Whether it's the cool, gentle waters, the soft grass of the bankside, the taste of the finest Devon cheese and pickle sandwiches or an icy pint of a local beer enjoyed by the water's edge, canals are so much more than just bodies of water - they're bodies of life.