Nine East Devon walks to enjoy

Starting off in Topsham: 

Walk 1.   The Canal offers a lovely walk culminating in the delightful Turf Inn, which sits at the point where the canal joins the River Exe:  a great place for an al fresco lunch.  From there it is possible to walk alongside the Exe to Powderham Castle, home to the Earl of Devon and a huge herd of deer.    The Castle is open to the public, and is a regular venue for concerts and events.

From Topsham, drive towards Clyst  St. George, passing by the only pub where the Queen has ever had a drink, the ancient and characterful Bridge Inn.   There is a great range of beers, including some of considerable strength.   For this reason, the Bridge very unusually serves beer in glasses of a third of a pint.    The Bridge Inn is certainly worthy of a visit, but an alternative, further towards Exmouth, is to stop off for a light meal at the estimable Puffing Billy Inn at Exton.   This is in truth no longer a pub, but an excellent restaurant.    The little station at the end of the lane that serves Exton must have the best view from any railway station in England.   

Walk 2.  The railway line, which connects Exeter to Exmouth, tracks the side of the river and runs all but parallel with a very fine new cycle path and walkway.     This offers the chance to walk south to Lympstone, where there are three good pubs and then catch the train back.  The distance from Exton to Lympstone is around two-and-a-half miles, and there are, on average, 32 trains a day.

Travelling  south from Exton, turn right  by Nutwell Lodge Hotel, which takes you past the parkland gardens of Nutwell Court, and eventually brings you to the wonderfully unspoilt riverside village of Lympstone, with charming cottages and popular pubs.   The best food is probably in the Redwing, but the most atmospheric is the traditional Globe Inn just back from the water’s edge.   Continue through the village on Courtlands Lane, where the riverside cycle way can again be accessed, and which will soon bring you to Lympstone Manor Hotel and its Michael Caines restaurant.   This is fine dining at its best:   if its beyond your pocket, at least go in and have a coffee and enjoy the lovely interiors of this imposing building.

Continue along the lane to the main road and go straight across into Summer Lane, which takes you very quickly to the extraordinary A La Ronde, an eccentric sixteen-sided Grade I house administered by the National Trust, once the home of two spinster cousins called Parminter.     A visit will not take long but is worth the entrance fee.

Summer Lane eventually brings you to Hulham Road:  turn left and proceed east to the edge of Woodbury Common.   Turn right on to the B3178 and head towards Budleigh Salterton.     After less than a mile turn left at the crossroads and descend into the woodland.   On your left is the Bystock Nature Reserve, which is worth a look , but better proceed further and pull into the Squabmoor car park.

Walk 3.    Head south from the car park and within a short while you will come to the Squabmoor reservoir, which supplies Exmouth, and draws many fishermen and a lot of passing birdlife.     A pathway circumnavigates the pretty and quiet lake, and makes for a lovely gentle stroll.

Return to the main road and head on towards Budleigh Salterton.    At the roundabout, a right turn will take you to the resort town of Exmouth, with its glorious sandy beach, so if an ice cream, a suntan and a swim appeals...   But if the more genteel atmosphere of Budleigh is your ‘cup of tea’, then continue straight on:  its a pleasant and leafy entrance to the town, with some interesting individual houses.    The fine course at East Devon Golf Club sits on the cliffs above you to the right.

Budleigh Salterton is a pleasant seaside community with good quality shops, a range of pubs and restaurants, and a peaceful, relaxed air.    The Fairlynch Museum is a good example of its kind, and a lovely building, if you wish to catch up on a bit of local history.   The long even beach culminates at its eastern end with a shingle headland and the mouth of the River Otter.

Exiting Budleigh on the Salterton Road, proceed into East Budleigh and  make a detour into the village centre by turning left at the Rolle Arms.     This typical Devon village is, of course, the birthplace of Sir Walter Raleigh, and quite an impressive statue stands at the top of the main street, opposite the fine parish church.   The very traditional village pub is named after the great man.    Hayes Barton, Raleigh’s birthplace is a mile or so north of the village, and can be seen from the road, but there is no public access.   Much better to spend a hour or two in the local hostelry.     The village was also the home of Roger Conant, the first Governor of Massachusetts, whom history has well regarded.   Just as Raleigh brought the potato to Europe, so Conant is thought to have introduced the apple to the Americas.

At the top of the village, turn right and head back towards the A 376?    Before you join the main road, it is worth slowing down to look at the restored Salem Chapel,  owned by the Historic Chapels Trust,  the modest exterior of which belies the wonderful original galleried interior.

Turn left on to the main road just beyond the Chapel.   Half a mile down the road are the Grade 1 listed Bicton Gardens, complete with an enormous obelisk that is easily seen from the road.   A brief detour to visit the Gardens is recommended, as is a journey on the miniature railway:  its not just for kids, the train takes you through the impressive tree collection.

Our recommended route is to turn right at the crossroads marked by the four-sided brick pillar dated 1743.    This takes you to the picturesque and ancient village of Otterton ,which began life as a Roman port:   the Otter Valley has silted up considerably since then.

Pull up at the Otterton Mill, which still makes bread every day after a thousand years of production.   The bread is heavy but delicious and the bacon sandwiches are recommended.    The mill is open to the public and there are a number of local craft products for sale.

Walk 4.    Walk back to  the river, and a choice is available:  turn right and head upstream and a circular route beckons.  This takes you into the territory of the beavers that have recently taken up residence after five hundred years of absence from Britain’s rivers.   There is quite a lot of evidence of their presence ( tree stumps with toothmarks ), but you will have to get there pretty early in the morning to have any hope of a sighting.  Take the footbridge back over the river after  less than a mile, and the footpath will take you back to the village, and the rear entrance to the Kings Arms, its excellent public house.

But most people turn left and walk downstream towards Budleigh Salterton.   In the summer, the river is full of large and healthy trout, and kingfishers are often observed.    As the river gets nears  the sea, there are a large variety of waders and ducks for the committed ornithologists.  The walk is level and attractive so to simply turn round and walk back the same way is very acceptable, but there are a couple of opportunities to cross over to the other side of the river and return via the village.

The village is essentially a long street with a lovely collection of thatched cottages, and a small stream that often dries up in the summer.

At this point there are lanes and footpaths everywhere that offer connections ( for the enthusiastic walkers ) to a particularly attractive section of the Coast Path, but an easier option is to continue through the village and proceed towards the coastal resort of Sidmouth via a country lane that takes you to the top of Peak Hill and Mutters Moor.

The entrance to Sidmouth Golf Club is halfway down the other side of the hill on the left.   Avoid in the depths of winter, and during a very dry summer, but in May and June especially, this is a very enjoyable, challenging and cleverly designed course of just over 5,000 yards.  

Sidmouth is a lovely town, with a happy mix of high quality hotels, individual shops, a beautiful Esplanade and attractive rural environs:  an obvious place to stay when in East Devon.    Until the beginning of the nineteenth century Sidmouth was a modest fishing village with a fleet that ventured to the cod banks of North America, but mainly relied upon catching the abundant local herring and mackerel.    Then the Napoleonic Wars prevented the aristocracy from visiting continental Europe, and alternative English winter destinations became popular.     Sidmouth, along with several other westcountry towns, had the mild and dry winter climate that the well-to-do  desired, and there was something of a mad rush to build seaside cottages for the wealthy to visit.

As a consequence, Sidmouth has nearly three hundred listed buildings, mostly from the Regency period, and some reflecting the Picturesque ‘cottage orne’ style that was popular at the time.    The three thatched examples at the western end of the Esplanade are especially noteworthy.

The town also has charming public gardens ( Connaught and Blackmore Gardens ) and a large riverside parkland area known as The Byes, which provides a pleasant two mile walk to Sidford.   The Cricket Field, overlooked by late eighteenth century Fortfield Terrace, is acknowledged as one of the most beautiful in the world.      There are many cafes, restaurants and pubs, all popular with visitors, but for a more local crowd try the Swan Inn, tucked away  in York Street.

Head out of town on Sid Road and take the road to Salcombe Regis.  This will take you to the top of Salcombe Hill.   Park in the small National Trust car park opposite the Norman Lockyer Observatory.

Walk 5.   If you are feeling less than energetic, then just walk two or three hundred yards to the edge of the cliff, and take in the views of Sidmouth and the coastline to the west, all the way to Start Point, some fifty miles away.   But a short stroll along the top of the cliffs to the east will take you to Frog Rock ( it looks like a squatting frog ) at which point stop and take in the beautifully unspoilt valley before you, and the coastline beyond:  on a clear day, you can see all the way to Portland Bill.    Walk back through the largely coniferous wood, listening out for the pig-like grunts of the resident raven population, and any path back to the west will lead you to back to the car park.

Continue driving to the east, and at the war memorial bear right down the steep hill into the hamlet of Salcombe Regis.    The hamlet has a very pretty church with a beautiful cherry tree, so its well worth taking a look inside.    Most of the valley is owned by the National Trust and protected by every conceivable planning policy.    Its a nice but strenuous walk to the shingle beach.

Just past the church, turn right and head to the little collection of houses known as Dunscombe, and you will soon come to the renowned Donkey Sanctuary, which has an outstanding restaurant.   Entrance is free and it is impossible not to be charmed by the friendly donkeys.

Immediately beyond this impressive facility, turn to the right at the mini roundabout and head for Branscombe, often described as the longest village in England.   It nestles along the entire length of a wonderfully unspoilt valley, and comprises a large number of thatched stone-and-cob cottages.    The Church is very old, probably 10^th century, and is the only one in Devon dedicated to St. Winifred.   It also has an unusual triple-decker pulpit.    Perhaps more importantly, there are two first class inns:   at the top of the valley is the unpretentious and reassuringly authentic Fountain Head, where the food is hearty, whilst  lower down is the thatched Masons Arms, where the food is more fine dining.   The Masons is very popular in the summer with tourists but commendably resists the ‘gastropub’ tendency. 

Walk 6.    Halfway between the two pubs is the village hall, and behind it is a public car park.   Close by are three National Trust properties, the Mill, the Tea Room, and The Forge, all of which are worth a visit.   So suitably enriched with culture, take the public footpath down the valley to the beach – its a little less than a mile.    There are some nice houses on the hillsides, and a good chance of seeing deer in the fields.   The beach is shingle again, and there’s a good café for refreshment.   The walk back is a gentle climb, and there is the option of taking the road.   Either way, a visit to the Masons is always on offer.

From Branscombe, climb out of the village centre and follow the signs to Beer.  On the way you will pass the entrance to Beer Caves, where the famous Beer stone has been quarried for centuries.   Today the caves are home to a large colony of Greater Horseshoe Bats:   the guided walks are strongly recommended.

Beer village is a traditional fishing community, where trips round the bay and a bit of mackerel fishing are still available in the summer.   The sheltered but sunny crescent-shaped beach and the most westerly chalk cliffs on the south coast of England make a lovely setting.   There are several beach cafes, and these are especially recommended for breakfast, something of a local tradition.   There are some individual houses on the main street and a small selection of eating establishments, pubs and individual shops.    The ridiculously small sailing club often hosts world championships, and justifiably claims to be the most popular of all the sailing venues around the globe.  

Just around the corner is Beer’s sister town of Seaton, but between the two is the secret beach of Seaton Hole, which has a small café and is delightfully undiscovered.

Seaton has been going through a period of regeneration, following the closure of its holiday camp, and the signs are good.  A child-friendly and brand new Jurassic Centre has opened which educates and informs, in a highly accessible way, about the geological story that this stretch of coastline represents.    The Centre is aimed primarily at younger children.    There is also a new Tramway Centre, which houses an impressive collection of trams that carry tourists and locals alike up the Axe Valley to Colyton.    The line runs alongside the river and through newly created wetland areas, so it is a twitcher’s paradise.  The Station Tea Rooms in Colyton do an excellent cream tea.

A stroll along the Esplanade at Seaton gives plenty of opportunities for an ice cream, but at the far west end is the ever-popular Hideaway Cafe, where a higher than usual standard of home made fare is on offer.  The Harbour at the eastern end is uncommercialized and thus retains a considerable charm.

Beyond the Harbour is the turning to Axe Cliff Golf Club, widely known, with irony and affection, as ‘Royal Axe Cliff’.   Wentworth this is not, but recent extensions to the course have improved the experience greatly, and the 18^th hole, a challenging short par three, is one of the best you will ever play.

Take the road on the eastern side of the River Axe, and you will quickly reach the old fishing village of Axmouth, which has some pretty cottages and two excellent pubs, The Harbour and the Ship.   Take your pick.

Carry on through the village until you reach the main road and turn left.  Unless, that is, you want to visit the famous harbour town of Lyme Regis with its famous ‘Cobb’, a harbour defence immortalised in the film ‘The French Lieutenant’s Woman’.    Its often very busy in the summer, deservedly so, as the walk beside the beach, and the selection of shops, are quite a draw.  The golf course, on the far side of the town is pretty good.    On the way to Lyme at Rousdon is an old filling station, which has become the home for a funky bakery-cum-eatery, which is strongly recommended.  Try the sourdough bread or the home made sausage roll. 

Anyway, whether you detour to Lyme or not, head back towards the little village of Colyford.   The home made pies in the tiny butchers shop are particularly recommended.    On entering the village turn right and head for Colyton,  another Devon community that has been by-passed by the main roads and thus remains charmingly unspoiled.  Colyton defiantly insists it is a town but in truth it is a big village with a strong sense of community:  a labyrinthine network of streets and lanes retains the pattern, and many of the properties, of five hundred years ago.    The best of the three pubs is the Gerrard Arms, just below the impressive church with its octagonal tower.

Walk 7.    There is a very nice and level riverside walk from the town back to Colyford, but we prefer the footpath that follows the River Coly westwards for well over a mile, past a former tannery, and where herons, egrets and kingfishers abound.   A footbridge over the river, after a little over a mile, provides a circular route back to Colyton.

Proceeding northwards from Colyton, take the signs to Shute.  This little hamlet is dominated by Shute House, another National Trust property that is occasionally open to the public and has an imposing gatehouse which can be rented from the Landmark Trust.

Immediately beyond Shute is the A35.    Turn right on to the main road and head towards Kilmington, but after half a mile or so turn sharply left.    You will quickly come to the National Trust property, Loughwood Meeting Room, a tiny, modest but gorgeous 17^th century noncomformist chapel, with original box seating, and lovely views down the valley.   On reaching the crossroads, continue straight ahead down Lowe Lane which leads eventually to the delightful Devon village of Dalwood, with a babbling brook, a little community shop, ancient village hall, and lovely church.   Most importantly, the village boasts one of Devon’s best pubs, the Tuckers Arms, dating from the 13^th century, and offering excellent beer and food.   Despite the comparative isolation of Dalwood, the pub is extremely popular, so do book in advance.    A ‘tucker’ by the way is an ancient Westcountry word for someone who softens woollen cloth by walking on it.

Walk 8.    Turn right on leaving the Tuckers Arms and then left just before the river; cross the little bridges and then follow the river bank upstream, through bucolic pastoral scenes.   The path then emerges on to a country lane, which should be followed for another three-quarters of a mile.   Cross the river again, and turn right down the next country lane, which takes you back downstream towards the pub.

Leaving the pub,  head uphill out of the village and head straight across at the crossroads at the top.   This ultimately leads back almost to the A35, but turn right just before and follow the signs to Burrow Farm Gardens,, the creation of a husband and wife team, over a period of fifty years.   The gardens are lovely, and its a great way to spend a couple of hours.

Turn right coming out of the Gardens and head to Cotleigh, one of those peaceful and unpretentious little villages that are found all over Devon.   Carry on through Cotleigh and head for the market town of Honiton, famous for lace and antiques.   Honiton Lace has featured in the wedding dresses of numerous royals down the years.   Production of lace took place all over East Devon and was a huge industry.   It was called Honiton Lace, because it was from the town’s railway station that all the local lace was sent to London.    The number of antique shops has declined over the years, but the long main street is well worth exploring.

Honiton’s golf course is up on the top of the hills to the south, and is an enjoyable and challenging track.

Heading out of Honiton west towards Exeter , turn in to the industrial estate on the left, and follow the signs to the Garden Centre.    The plants are very healthy, so stock up if gardening is your passion, but otherwise pass by to the unspoilt village of Gittisham, home of the Putt family and the Tom Putt apple variety.   The village, like nearby Broadhembury, is largely in the ownership of a single family, and very well preserved.     Take the time to visit the Pig at Coombe, where its folly building  serves light bites, and there is an outstanding kitchen garden.   The main house is a lovely upmarket hotel, part of a small chain of similar character establishments.

From Gittisham take the lane to the south just before the church and continue to the top of Gittisham Hill, taking care not to hit any of the pheasants that wander around the road.   Turn right at the top and descend into the historic town of Ottery St. Mary, birthplace of Samuel Taylor Coleridge.   The church, a miniature version of Exeter Cathedral, is a highlight, as are the period buildings that stand alongside.     Directly opposite the Church is the Old School where the poet Samuel Taylor Coleridge was Headmaster.

From Ottery take the road south towards Sidmouth, through the village of Wiggaton, and after a couple of miles turn right to Tipton St. John.    The pretty village sits alongside the River Otter and has the excellent Golden Lion pub-cum-bistro.

Walk 9.    Rather like Otterton, the river at Tipton offers both downstream and upstream walking options; but the upstream choice is marginally preferred,  heading through the cricket field and then following the river north.    A old and picturesque mill sits beside a footbridge that provides a pleasant stroll through the fields and back to the village.

From the Golden Lion, pass over the river, and take the sign to Higher Metcombe, which ultimately takes you up on to Venn Ottery Common, and from there to the dispersed village of Aylesbeare, where the newly built Nightjar Inn offers high quality food and is very popular.

Thence to the Halfway Inn, so called because it is halfway between Penzance and London on an old coaching route.    Cross the A3052, and head up on to Woodbury Common where you will find Woodbury Castle, an iron age hill fort.    The road passes through the middle of the ancient ramparts.   There are numerous walks in the vicinity.   Just before the ‘Castle’  on the right are signs to   Woodbury Park Golf Club.   The course is well designed and testing, but with reasonably wide fairways and large, mostly flat, greens, it offers the chance of a good score.  The modern clubhouse has excellent facilities.    There is also a first class nine hole course for the less energetic.

If golf is not your game, drive  past the golf course entrance and head for the village of Woodbury, where there are two good pubs, the Maltsters and the White Hart.  At the end of the village is the A3079: turn right and head back to Topsham where our little tour started.